2. Hardware Tools

Unlike consumer camera drones (like DJI Mavics), FPV drones require high-frequency maintenance. Whether it is replacing a broken arm after a crash, re-soldering a severed motor wire, or simply tightening screws as part of a routine check, you need the right tools.

As the saying goes, "A workman must sharpen his tools if he is to do his work well." A good set of tools will save you time, frustration, and prevent you from stripping screws.

1

The Essentials: Hex Drivers

99% of the fasteners on an FPV drone are Hex (Allen) screws.

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We highly recommend buying S2 Steel handled screwdrivers.

Size
Common Usage
Notes

1.5 mm

Most Critical! Used for motor screws, small camera screws, and M2 stack screws.

This size strips the easiest. Buy the highest quality driver you can afford for this one.

2.0 mm

Most Common. Used for arm bolts, M3 standoffs, and stack bolts.

The standard screw size for most GEPRC frames.

2.5 mm

Less Common. Usually found on larger structural parts of 5-inch or 7-inch drones (e.g., MARK5).

Phillips

Occasionally used for camera back covers or older accessories.

Keep a small Phillips head driver handy just in case.

2

Propeller Tools

Different drones require different tools to change propellers.

For 5-inch / 7-inch Drones (e.g., MARK5, MOZ7)

  • Tool: M8 Socket Driver (8mm)

  • Use: To remove and tighten M5 Lock Nuts.

  • Recommendation: Get a socket driver with a built-in one-way ratchet or a dedicated FPV prop tool. It makes changing props much faster and is very satisfying to use.

For Whoops / Micros (e.g., Cinebot, DarkStar)

  • Tool: 1.5 mm Hex Driver

  • Use: These smaller drones usually secure propellers directly to the motor bell using two M2 screws. No socket driver is needed.

3

Soldering & Electrical Tools

Wires break, and eventually, you will need to replace a receiver or motor. Soldering is a mandatory skill for FPV pilots.

The "Holy Trinity" of Soldering

  1. Soldering Iron:

    • Recommendation: Portable smart irons like TS100 / TS101 / Pinecil.

    • Pros: Heats up in seconds, compact, and can be powered by a PD charger or even a 4S/6S LiPo battery in the field. Perfect for field repairs.

  2. Solder Wire:

    • Avoid: Beginners should avoid Lead-Free solder (it has a high melting point and is difficult to work with).

    • Recommendation: 63/37 Leaded Solder. It has a low melting point, flows well, and creates shiny, solid joints.

  3. Flux:

    • Role: The soul of soldering. Apply a little flux to the pads, and the solder will flow like water, preventing solder bridges and cold joints.

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The "Holy Trinity" above covers the minimum for reliable soldering and field repairs.

The Lifesaver: Multimeter

  • Use: Every time you touch a soldering iron to your drone, you MUST use a multimeter in "Continuity Mode" (Beep Mode) to check the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals before plugging in a battery.

  • Verdict:

    • Long Beep: Short circuit detected! DO NOT plug in the battery.

    • Silence (or short chirp): Safe to power up.

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4

Consumables & Adhesives

  • Threadlocker (Loctite):

    • Recommendation: Blue (Medium Strength), such as Loctite 243.

    • Usage: Apply a tiny drop to motor screws and arm screws to prevent vibrations from loosening them.

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  • Electrical / Acetate Tape:

    • Used to bundle motor wires to the arms, preventing them from catching in the propellers.

  • Zip Ties (Cable Ties):

    • Used to secure receiver antennas, power leads, and capacitors. An FPV pilot can never have enough zip ties.

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GEPRC Repair Tip:

If you crash your MARK5 or Cinebot and break an arm, you will need to remove the motor to replace the arm.

  • Try to keep the motor wires as long as possible. Do not cut them short; you might need to move that motor to a different frame later.

  • If you are unsure which wire goes to which pad, check the "Wiring Diagram" on our official website product page, or simply take a photo with your phone before desoldering.